Firearms and Knives

*Every weapon is designed to harm or in some way incapacitate a subject. They do not know right from wrong and they do not take sides. It is up to you the user to develop the mindset needed to employ that weapon, learn its functions, and learn how to care for and clean it. You will need to know the local laws concerning the carrying and employment of your weapon, and you must be ready to accept the physical and mental consequences of using your weapon, regardless of whether it was a justified action or not. Only then, when you’ve done all that, should you learn how to properly use it. *


On this topic, let me start off by saying that you should never, ever, ever, ever, carry a gun or knife for self-defense if you do not know how to use it or do not think you will be able to use it. Electing to carry these items can cause a host of problems but can also be the only thing that saves your life. It is strictly a personal decision.
The “host of problems” mentioned above mainly stems from users not knowing or understanding their local laws. Get to know them…and if you are still unsure tell a cop about how you intend to carry your weapon and see if you would be breaking any laws. You may not be allowed into some places while armed, especially bars. You’ll have to ensure that your kids can not get to your weapon. Just owning a gun could make you a target for thieves, whether it is in your house or car. Carrying it can be annoying and a mood killer. A dependable gun is expensive, and a good knife isn’t far behind. Speaking of cost, you should be forking over several hundred dollars for a gun (unless you get a deal) and you should also be spending about a hundred dollars a year for practice ammo in order to maintain your proficiency. Both of these items require initial training as well as sustainment training. I could go on but I think you get the point. Now on the flip side, a gun (especially at home), could be the only thing that keeps you or your family alive. Nothing says “go away” like the sound of a shotgun!


Firearms:
When talking firearms for self-defense, we will cover a few weapons to use while your at home and while you are out and about.   


1. Home
The absolute best weapon for home defense is the shotgun. Now, if you have visions of yourself clearing your house with a pistol or semi-automatic rifle as per Jack Bauer or James Bond, put them aside and listen to what I have to say for a sec. I’m going to run through the pro’s and con’s of a pistol, rifle, and shotgun in the home environment and show you why you should consider a shotgun first before any other firearm.  If you cannot for whatever reason get a shotgun, I will cover the best method for utilizing the other two tools as well.
    
     a. Pistol
     b. Rifle
     c. Shotgun


Pistol:
Pro’s – Pistol’s are relatively light and small. You can maneuver around corners and in tight spaces a lot easier and safer with a pistol than you can a rifle or shotgun. You can carry your pistol on you or stage several pistols throughout your house if you feel the need without them being intrusive.


Con’s – Pistols are fairly expensive. A quality one is going to set you back around $500 depending on where you get it. Due to the shorter barrel, it takes more skill to hit your target. You may be the best shot while at the range but during a high stress situation even the most highly trained military and police shooters have missed their targets with a pistol. Over-penetration can be an issue depending on the caliber and type of ammo you choose. Over-penetration is when your bullet travels further than what you want it to, such as when you miss your target and the round goes through the wall and into your child’s room. Due to the fact that there are many readers from different countries on here, I cannot make one recommendation on ammo type or caliber that would meet everyone’s needs, so instead I’m going to leave it up to you. Do your own research, it is definitely worth it.


If you absolutely must use a pistol, a .45 loaded with hollow points is your best option.  In saying that, I also know that some men and women (my wife included) have smaller hands and would not be able to properly grip a .45 caliber pistol.  That is just a starting point, work your way down from there until you find a pistol and caliber that you can effectively utilize and will still stop your attacker.  I would not recommend going lower than a .38, and even then that is pushing it.  During a home invasion your attacker will more than likely only be a few feet away from you if you need to engage, and when you shoot you have to be relatively certain that he will be immediately incapacitated.  If not, he may continue his attack and end up wounding or killing you or a member of your family even though he has been shot.  Stopping power is the main argument for a .45 caliber (most direct action units use .45's for that purpose rather than the standard 9mm...even though it holds half the rounds).  Shot placement is also key.  Obviously somebody shot in the chest will more than likely go down a lot faster than somebody shot in the hand.  This is also connected to over-penetration which we hit on above.  If you have kids in the house, you need to make sure you have a plan in case of a home invasion.  Where will you position yourself to protect your family?  From that position, is there a possibility your round or the attackers round may enter your children's bedroom or yours?  Where will you tell your kids to be?  On the floor?  In the closet?  Under the bed?  Make sure you prep your mind for the fact that your child may not stay put and he/she may run directly into your room.  DON'T SHOOT!  Easy to say, but add loads of adrenaline and a muddled brain and...  I will cover more of that kind of stuff in a later post, just ensure that the pistol you choose is reliable (Smith&Wesson, Glock, HK...) and has a rail on the front so that you can attach a pistol light.  You have to be able to see your target.  A laser is recommended but optional.  For a novice I would stick to a weapon mounted light, but as you progress you can start playing around.  There are a lot of fun things you can do with a light that isn't mounted.  For now though, your pistol light would be giving your attacker a target to shoot at but that is better than missing your target because you don't know how to shoot with a hand-held flashlight or shooting your child because you can't see.
I could write a book on all the ins-and-outs of using a pistol for self-defense but this blog is not the place.  You came here for quick, effective, and easy to read information and that is what I try to give.  Just remember that if you are going to use a pistol for self-defense in the home or anywhere else, make sure you get some professional training that includes classroom time and range time.  Without it you are more of a danger than a saviour.  Do some reading, ask your local law enforcement, or give me a buzz if you have any questions.  It would take forever to make this post broad enough to fit everyone's needs, but I would be happy to answer targeted questions. 
The next weapon we will discuss is the assault rifle. I am purposely omitting hunting rifles because those should only be used as a last resort and all the same rules from an assault rifle apply to a hunting type rifle.


Assault Rifles:
(AK’s, M-4’s, MP-5 style, Galil’s etc…)


Pro’s – Assault rifles look cool and you can attach all kinds of high-speed gizmos to them with the right hardware. Weapons lights, pressure pads, lasers, scopes, aiming points, double magazine carriers and more can all be outfitted on most assault rifles. They can hold a lot of ammunition (usually 30 rounds or more) and they fire as fast as you can pull the trigger.


Con’s – Unless you live in a mansion or way out in the country, the main issue with assault rifles is over-penetration. The max range on 5.56 ammunition (for an M-4/M16 style weapon that the U.S. military uses) is around 3600m. Most of that ammunition will easily penetrate household walls, glass, 2x4’s, car doors, and a myriad of other common building materials. This holds true for other assault rifle ammunition as well except for the 9mm of the MP-5 style. I will touch on that in a second. If you live in an urban or suburban environment, imagine the outcome of you shooting at an assailant and having half of your rounds exit your house and enter your neighbor’s homes. More than likely, even if you did prevent your family from being harmed, you will still find yourself in jail and have made enemies of your neighbors. It is not worth it. A good assault rifle is going to set you back almost $1000 and the other options you have available to you for a quarter of the cost would make it so you wouldn’t have a leg to stand on in court. DO NOT USE AN ASSAULT RIFLE FOR HOME DEFENSE unless it is legal and practical, such as your home is located in a place like Iraq. Now, for the ammo, there are such things as frangible rounds. These rounds are designed to break apart when they hit something more solid than themselves. When using this ammo in your home, if your attacker is behind a wall there is a good possibility that your rounds will not penetrate. These rounds are mainly used by law enforcement and military for training and for protecting assets such as nuclear facilities and ships where over penetration or ricochets are highly undesirable. As for 9mm ammunition, H&K makes assault rifles that take this size round, and Intratec made machine pistols of this caliber but they are no longer in business. Since this is standard pistol ammo you will still be dealing with the same over penetration issues that we discussed with pistols but anything with a longer barrel and a stock will give you more accuracy than a handgun. Another issue with assault rifles, and we already touched on it a little bit, is the aftermath. Unfortunately, even though the person you shot broke into your home and threatened you or your family, they or their families can still sue you and win! Welcome to the American legal system. It is asinine but the average American looks on guns with fear and disdain and after hearing testimony from sobbing relatives and “expert” witnesses, the jury may look at you like YOU are the bad guy. Apparently only criminals can have assault rifles and if you own one and use it, that makes you a criminal in the eyes of a lot of Americans.


Now, let’s talk about shotguns.


Shotguns:
Pro’s – Shotguns are relatively easy to use and maintain. They have few working parts so there is less that can go wrong. You can mount lights and aiming points on them just like a rifle. Here is a link that will show you all you a lot you can do with a shotgun. When using buckshot, you don’t have to be an expert marksman. A general rule of thumb is the shorter the barrel or the further the shot travels, the larger the spread. In saying that, different ammo spreads differently so you need to shoot the ammo you will be using at varied distances to gauge the spread accurately. Here is a link to give you an idea of shotgun spread.
A good shotgun is cheap, only costing around $250, and you can walk out of the store with it that day in most states. Also, owning a shotgun is legal in a lot of cities that have a low tolerance for weapons such as Chicago. You can buy different gauges that better suit your stature. If you are a small woman a 12 gauge is probably a little too big. You can get a 20 or .410 gauge; it still packs punch and will not dislocate your shoulder or make you drop the gun.


Con’s – Shotguns can be relatively heavy and cumbersome. Most don’t come ready for home defense so you have to buy the attachments pictured above in order to shorten its length and make it better suited for protecting your home. When used at close range, a shotgun will make a mess of the person you shot so mentally prepare yourself for the aftermath, especially if you achieved a headshot. Repainting, replacing carpet, and fixing drywall will probably be on the list as well.


When talking ammo, buckshot is usually best. All buckshot is is a bunch of little steel balls, kind of like ball bearings, packed into a shell that disperse when shot. They do make slugs that come in handy for going through walls but they require you to aim which requires a little more skill. For a novice I would simply stick with buckshot. When talking over penetration, there is a chance with buckshot but the shot will usually be stopped by the wood in your walls and slowed down quite a bit when it enters and exits the dry wall. Same with most hollow interior doors. I still wouldn’t aim it directly at your kid’s rooms but the likelihood of your shot passing through an assailant is slim, unlike an assault rifles round. This all has to do with ballistics, the shape of the round, muzzle velocity, and a bunch of other factors. For the novice, just keep in mind that you should always be aware of your target and WHAT LIES BEYOND, but in a life or death situation buckshot is going to be your best choice. If you would like more guidance on this drop me a line and I will try to make things a little more clearer.


This concludes this section on firearms for your home. Next, we will discuss firearms for self-defense while you are out and about.  Hopefully I can get it done quicker than I did with this post.


Here it is, def. a lot faster than last time.


2. Out and About
There is only one practical type of firearm to consider while you are on the go and that is the pistol…so that is all that will be discussed.

You must take carrying a concealed firearm for self defense in public serious. As previously discussed, if you are not ready to take someone’s life or do not know how to use your weapon then you SHOULD NOT BE CARRYING IT. Since you are out in public, if you miss with a firearm or have a negligent discharge (your weapon goes off without you intending it to) then you will be putting more than your family in danger. And God forbid if you accidentally shoot an innocent person, regardless if you were trying to defend yourself or not, because you will have a hard time staying out of prison. Not to mention the psychological burden you may carry around for the rest of your life. Some states like Indiana simply require you to undergo a background check and provide money for an application fee in order for you to legally carry a concealed weapon, and others require you to attend formal training (under a licensed firearms instructor with class time and range time) to receive a permit. If you are new to firearms, I strongly urge you to take a course before you carry even if you live in a state that does not require it. If you don’t know where to start, google something like “basic pistol course Indiana” or whatever state you live in and check out the results. The NRA usually has instructors in every state, you can visit their website at http://www.nrahq.org/education/training/index.asp to get started. Not only do you need to know how to use your firearm, but you also need to know how to legally carry it. This again is where formal classes come in handy.

Formal classes usually cover all the laws pertaining to your state in-depth so that you will be set up for success. And while some states have easy to read laws posted on their government website, others do not. Remember, ignorance is no excuse! If you need any help pertaining to this subject please let me know.

Now that we have discussed the preliminaries, let’s get on with it shall we?

When we talk of a concealed weapon, I mean if somebody where to look at you 360, while standing or walking, they would not know that you are armed. If you are carrying to satisfy your ego please leave and don’t come back, I’m writing for beginners serious about their safety not amateurs who lack self-esteem.

When choosing a pistol to carry you should consider its actual weight, stopping power, comfort, and ease of use. Never decide on a firearm without first trying it out. Lots of gun stores with indoor ranges have pistols that you can rent, and though they may not have the exact one you are looking at, they may have one similar that will allow you to make a better decision.

Weight is important because more than likely you will be carry your pistol on your body. I carried around a Ruger P90 for a long time (it was all I could afford) and it was a big, heavy gun. It left marks on my hip and was very difficult to keep concealed. I ended up having to decide on whether to carry it or not depending on what I was going to be doing that day. Don’t let this be you. This goes for females especially who don’t normally wear pants that can hold up a heavy pistol.

Stopping power usually relates directly to the weight of the pistol simply because a bigger caliber means heavier ammunition, a larger magazine and magazine well to hold the rounds, and a larger barrel. Unlike home defense, it is my opinion that your level of potential threat should decide your caliber and number of magazines (mags). In the home, someone has made a conscious effort to enter your house and to me that automatically elevates an assailant’s dedication and will to inflict harm, so the largest caliber you can handle should be used in order to immediately incapacitate the person. On the street, however, you need to assess your potential for conflict. If you live in an area where crime is rampant and you can’t walk down the street without passing several drug dealers and gang bangers then I would recommend a larger caliber pistol (again, a caliber that you can effectively use) with at least two extra mags in case you needed to defend yourself from several armed assailants.  Remember, two is one and one is none.  Meaning that having two mags is like having one, since if one mag malfunctions you have another one to use.  If you just have one mag, you are screwed. The same holds true if you are a potential target for robbery or someone with elite access to sensitive areas, such as a jewelry store owner, bank manager, or something of that sort. If you are ever attacked it will more than likely be by several individuals who have formulated a plan and have a strong will to complete their mission, so simply waving a pistol will probably not do the trick. On the flip side, if you live in an area with a relatively low crime rate and offer nothing that would elevate your risk of being attacked above another, then a smaller caliber pistol with only one extra mag (or load if you are using a revolver) could be right for you. Your attacker will most likely be alone or with only a few friends, be disorganized, and easily scared off when their “easy” prey turns out to be better prepared and more confident than what they are used to. When speaking of calibers, I would consider .22, .38, and 9mm as small calibers, and .357, .40 and .45 as larger calibers. I would not recommend carrying a .50 caliber pistol such as the Desert Eagle simply because of its sheer size, weight, and difficulty in handling. As discussed above, hollow points are preferred except while driving. I usually carry a mag of ball ammunition in my pistol while driving in case I have to shoot through the car window. Hollow points are made to mushroom when they connect which is good in the body, but bad when you are trying to penetrate a hard surface. Think of getting carjacked. You are inside your vehicle and a man with a gun runs up and demands you get out. If you have hollow points your first couple of rounds may only break the glass, allowing the assailant time to fire his own weapon straight into your car. With ball ammunition, you have a better chance of your first round going through the glass and into the perpetrator.

Comfort will tie in with how you carry your pistol (we will get into holsters a little later), your physical size, and the size and weight of your gun. This will be a personal decision but don’t expect to find a gun that feels as if it is not there. Most guns will always be felt by their wearers, and that is a good thing as you won’t forget that it is there. But you also shouldn’t purchase a gun that you will never wear because it is too cumbersome or painful.

Ease of use is another important factor. Why buy a gun that you can’t operate successfully in the heat of the moment, or one that you feel you may discharge negligently. This all goes back to practicing with your choice before you buy. Some guns have safeties that you need to manipulate in order to fire. Single action pistols require the hammer to be cocked in order to fire meaning that it takes less pressure on the trigger. Other pistols have no safety or, like the Glock, have internal safeties that keep the weapon from accidentally going off if it is dropped or thrown around a car during an accident, but will still fire just by pulling the trigger. 

Ease of use also extends into the construction of the gun. A lot of gun manufacturers sell guns specifically made for concealed carry that are more sleek in design and have had all the sharp edges taken off so that they won’t get caught on your clothing or other objects when drawing. Do your research! Here is an article that goes a little more in-depth.

Now let’s talk about holsters. Back in my “gangster” days (pre 20’s) I used to carry a little 5 shot .38 everywhere. I had no holster for it nor did I need one because I was a “gangster” and gangsters tuck it into their waistbands. One night, while eating with a bunch of friends at Outback, we had all finished our meals (luckily) and were getting ready to leave. I was at the end of the table and as I stood up the pistol fell out of my waist, down the inside of my pants, hit my foot and the momentum carried it across the floor. As bad as that was, we were right by the door and it was a busy Friday night. All the hostesses saw it as well as the customers waiting to be seated. I quickly picked the shiny silver pistol up off the floor and virtually fled out the door, hoping no one (read cop) could react. It was immature, embarrassing, and reckless all tied into one. Don’t let that be you. Get a good holster that will secure your pistol. Fobus makes good holsters for all different types of pistols and carries. I prefer my pistol and mags on my hip so that they are readily accessible but different environments, dress, and places call for different holsters. For normal wear, with pants or shorts, shirt un-tucked, I would go with your pistol on your waist. You can draw it quickly and have better control over it. Fobus makes hard plastic holsters that are secured on the outside of your waistband by your belt, or Uncle Mike's (their website appears to be down, but I know you can get their products still from local gun stores) make soft, felt-like holster that go inside your pants with a clip that slips over your belt to hold it in place. Don’t make the same mistake I did and think that the soft holster is supposed to go on the outside and then wonder why your gun always falls out. Bellyband also makes a holster; you may try that if you wish. In movies you see G-men using shoulder harnesses for their weapons, I would not recommend these as the harness is cumbersome and doesn’t really conceal much more than a holster on your waist would. It also takes 2 hands to reholster which is a pain in the butt when your non-firing hand is wounded or otherwise preoccupied. Ankle holsters are good for smaller pistols when you are in formal wear or have your shirt tucked in. They are relatively unobtrusive but you may have to constantly adjust it back into position as the day or night wears on. Gravity and the repetitive motion of walking may cause it to slip down.

When you are in a vehicle, you should consider a different type of holster. You still want to secure your pistol in case of an accident but you also need to be able to get to it. Wearing it on your waist or leg makes it extremely difficult to get to so I would recommend something like a fanny pack. I carried a Blackhawk fanny pack for my Glock 19 in Iraq and it worked wonderfully. Securely held my pistol but I could draw it immediately when needed. Eagle also makes one but it is a little more bulky than the Blackhawk and less efficient.

This concludes the firearms portion of this post. If you have any questions at all please let me know. For some idle reading check out this link .  It was a study done in the ‘70’s and published in 1981 so it is dated but it has a lot of good information on the emergence of proper firearms training for law enforcement and stats on shootings during that time that still apply today. 


Knives:
Our discussion of knives will finish up this monster of a post, and it should go fairly quickly as there is not a whole lot to say.

In terms of home defense, knives should not be considered as your primary weapon; rather, it should be a weapon of opportunity (which we will discuss in a later post) that you use only as a last resort. The reason being, knives are relatively short which means you have to let your attacker get close to you in order to begin your attack. Also, you have probably heard the saying “never bring a knife to a gunfight” because obviously the intruder need only pull the trigger outside of your reach to kill you. Stick with firearms when protecting your home.

Outside of your home is a different story. If you can legally and competently carry a firearm then do it. If not, a knife could be your next best choice, though check with your local laws on what is considered a concealed weapon.  The blade length, or whether it is a fixed blade or not, may factor in. Like all weapons though, there are limitations. I will begin by talking about the pros of carrying a knife, the cons, and then end with general guidelines.

Pros - Knives are relatively inexpensive. A good one should cost around $100. They are small and unobtrusive and are allowed in most places that otherwise ban firearms (again, check with local laws). They are easy for beginners to use (there are more advanced techniques that can raise your level of confidence and effectiveness), sturdy, and can be effective even if you miss vital areas of the body. A cut on the forehead will cause blood to run into your assailant’s eyes. Cuts on the arms may cause blood to run onto your attacker’s hands, affecting his grip. Cut tendons on the hands can affect movement and grip as well. Knives can be deployed quickly and one can carry it around (folder) unnoticed in the palm of the hand.

Cons - In order to effectively use a knife, you have to be close enough to your attacker to reach him. ..which means he can also reach you. Knives will not be allowed on airplanes or in federal buildings. You have a good chance of cutting yourself while using your knife to fend off an attack. The psychological effect of cutting into another human being may be too much for you to handle, causing you to hesitate. A knife doesn’t do well against a gun.

The knife you choose to carry will be a personal decision but do not think you are going to be walking around with a giant Bowie type knife attached to your hip. It is extremely difficult to conceal and will let everyone know that yes, you are armed but only with a knife, allowing your attackers to plan accordingly.

Knives are best used as a surprise against your attacker. Pulling your knife too early will give away your planned defense and though it could scare away a potential assailant, it may simply make his attack more effective and lessen your chance of prevailing. If you have been paying attention throughout this blog, in most cases you shouldn’t have to take the extra time to draw your knife because you have identified the threat or potential threatening situation and have your knife in hand. A pistol would not allow you to do this as it is unacceptable to be walking in public gripping a pistol. I recommend surprising your attacker because he has more than likely labeled you as a soft target. He is expecting you to resist but not attack so when he all of a sudden gets stabbed or cut it may create enough hesitation on his part for you to gain the upper hand or get away.

As I said, your choice of knife is a personal decision but I will toss out a few recommendations that I prefer.

a.) Gerber Applegate Fairbairn Combat Knife – My personal favorite. It comes with a pocket clip that allows for an easy and silent draw. The handle is long enough to be comfortable for most any sized hands. The blade is an inch and a quarter longer than most pocket knives and is made by a reputable company with law enforcement and military in mind.

b.) Cold Steel Safe Keeper II – Another favorite of mine. I carried this constantly while operating and contracting; I called it my tri-mary weapon and kept it on my thigh rig right next to my pistol. Due to its short blade, double edge, and design I have chosen the Gerber for protection while in the States. The blade length is a no brainer, the double edge combined with the way you use this particular knife elevates the risk of cutting yourself when struggling with an attacker in close quarters. Overseas it works well as a sentry removal tool or in close quarters when your pistol runs dry and you need to continue pressing the attack. That is an unlikely scenario here in the states.

c.) Novelty – There are other blades out there that masquerade as common items:
Ink Pen
Belt Buckle
Comb
Necklace
Lipstick

This concludes this posts.  There is a lot of information contained in here and a lot of information kept out, so if you have any questions, comments, or need some guidance please let me know.
Cheers!

International Burn-a-Quran Day

This blog is about personal security, but I feel this current event should be addressed since in a way it could affect you just because you are American or your country is positively affiliated with America.
Most citizens of democratic countries enjoy the safety that stability has brought, only dealing with security issues when they are chosen as a random target for violence or they have somehow stood out as a target. Actions like the public burning of another religion’s holy book could change that. You could become a target simply by being from a certain country. American’s have witnessed that through incidences such as the attacks on 9-11 and the kidnapping and beheadings of security contractors and aid workers in Iraq. So far, those kinds of attacks have been either few and far between or have been outside of America’s borders.

For those of you unaware of what I am talking about, Reverend Terry Jones at the Dove World Outreach Center in Gainesville, Florida has decided to host an International Burn-a-Quran Day in which he will burn Qurans. There has been a massive international public outcry against his intent yet he still plans on going through with it. I will post a link and let you read the news clippings for yourself, but I would like to comment on a few quotes taken from an associated press writer:

“The Quran, according to Jones, is "evil" because it espouses something other than biblical truth and incites radical, violent behavior among Muslims.”
If I remember correctly, wasn’t there a time in the history of Christianity that the bible incited radical, violent behavior? Anyone remember the Crusades? Or how about the Medieval Inquisition, Spanish Inquisition, Portuguese Inquisition, and the Roman Inquisition? Just some food for thought.

The next quote:

"It is the duty of Muslims to react," said Mohammad Mukhtar, a cleric and candidate for the Afghan parliament in the Sept. 18 election. "When their holy book Quran gets burned in public, then there is nothing left. If this happens, I think the first and most important reaction will be that wherever Americans are seen, they will be killed. No matter where they will be in the world they will be killed."
Anyone catch the fact that this guy is a candidate for the Afghan parliament?

And another quote:

“Kabul resident, Rajab Ali said, "If this (burning of the Quran) happens there will be chaos in Afghanistan and being a Muslim, if we don't defend the Quran then what else we can do?"

Burning the Quran will result in American deaths both at home and abroad, I can assure you that. I try to keep my opinions to myself but if you think that what this “reverend” is doing is justified I would first ask that you take the time to learn about the Muslim religion and what it is about. Then learn about radical Islamists and their terrorist organizations; how they got started, why people join, and who they target and why. Until you do that how can you intelligently defend your opinion? I have been targeted by Muslims. I’ve been shot at, mortared, IED’d, and had friends get killed by Muslims yet I do not hate the Muslim religion or its people.
If the Rev. Terry Jones goes through with his plan, attacks could become more frequent both inside and outside of America’s borders and her allies. Military personnel will not be the only target; it will be the average citizen at a night club, shopping mall, or sitting in traffic.

http://www.abc-7.com/Global/story.asp?S=13117609

Self-Defense Courses

In this post I will be talking about both self-defense courses and martial arts.  I do not want to get into a large debate on which martial art discipline is the best, I am simply going to state some aspects a good self-defense course or martial arts program should include in order for you to get the most for your money when you need it in real life.

When choosing a program, you need to first consider what you are looking for.  Do you want a short period of instruction (1-5 days) teaching basic self-defense techniques, or are you looking for a long-term commitment that could span years or a lifetime?  You need to decide that first (don't worry, you can change your mind later) because that will usually be the deciding factor on whether you go with a self-defense course or enroll in a martial arts program.

Self-Defense Courses:
Self-defense courses generally run from 1-5 days, can be very expensive, and usually it's a crap shoot whether the instruction is going to be worth what you paid for.  On the flip side, they are focused solely on self-defense which means everything you learn should be useful the day you learn it and you are not making a long-term commitment.  When choosing a good self-defense course, my best advice would be to ask somebody within your local law enforcement.  They are very active in your community and know what businesses are out there, and since they have had ample training themselves in self-defense, they know a good course from a bad one.  Regardless of how you do it, you should never spend a large sum of money on a self-defense program that you haven't thoroughly researched.  Don't just read reviews on the website, read other information that may be available independently on the net.  See if there is anyone in your area that has taken the course, contact the Better Business Bureau, and you could also ask the administrators if they would let you watch an hour or so of the class before making your decision.  The personality of the instructors do not matter as much in this short of a course, just as long as they can effectively teach. 

Good self-defense courses should teach a basic type course that covers generic grabs, holds, and the appropriate defense for each.  It should also include simple yet effective strikes against targets such as the eyes and throat.  If you have good instructors, they should explain each move, demonstrate it, make you imitate it, and then allow you to practice it. Practicing should first be at a controlled speed until you have the move down correctly, and then you should execute close to full force if not at full force. They should then give you scenarios that make you apply everything you have learned in order to build your confidence in your new found skills.
Some courses may offer advanced classes that build on the techniques you learned in the basic course, such as how to control your opponent once you have incapacitated them or how to escape from an attacker when they are on top of you. They may also run separate courses that teach you how to use tasers, stun guns, key chain tools, and self-defense sprays. Most importantly, if they are not teaching the basics we discussed, or are not teaching them appropriately, you should really consider another course.
As far as the money is concerned, there is really no way to pinpoint an appropriate cost. It will depend on the instructors skill level and background, what they are offering to teach, and how good their equipment and facilities are. It will be up to you to do the research and then ultimately answer the question “is it worth it or not”.

Martial Arts Programs:
If you are looking to achieve your self-defense goals with a long-term commitment and possible change in lifestyle, then a good martial arts program is something you should consider. This is where we may have some debate as most people who have vested a massive amount of time, effort, money, and energy into their martial art of choice naturally like to think that theirs is the best. Again, I do not want to get into a debate but if you have questions concerning why I chose a particular martial art over another I would be happy to explain.
I will start this topic off by recounting my own experiences with martial arts and then go from there.

When I was 15 I had a steady job, no bills, and wanted to take karate. My parents and I found the closest school, I attended a few classes, and since it was my money my parents let me make the choice on whether to continue with it or not. I was all eager beaver to begin so I signed up for the $1,100 Black Belt Club that guaranteed me the opportunity to reach black belt regardless of how long it took or how many courses I had to go to. I achieved the rank of yellow belt with some colored stripes before I succumbed to the 16 year old lifestyle of hanging out with friends and driving my car anywhere and everywhere. I continued to pay off my debt but never again went to another class.
Now that I am older and wiser and have actually trained with professionals, I can see that the instructors I had were egotistical amateurs, even though they were black belts. They belittled the students, made comments such as “I’ve had to use that move before” in order to make themselves appear to be a bad ass, and talked to us with an air of unworthiness. This is a trend I have seen in other instructors from other disciplines as well and it is something you need to be very careful of. You yourself would not want to be influenced by these individuals and you certainly would not want your kids to pick up these traits. I will argue that your best bet is with an ex-military or law-enforcement instructor simply because they know what is important. They have dealt with life or death scenarios and don’t (usually) have to prove to you or anyone else that they are a “bad ass”. They are focused on teaching the content and getting results as opposed to fueling their ego. Be wary, and if you are unsure drop me a line and describe their behavior and I will do what I can to ensure you are making the right decision.

As far as martial arts programs are concerned, all disciplines technically teach self-defense but there are some out there that are better suited than others when your goal is ending a fight quickly with anything that you have available. The most inhibiting factor will be location. What martial arts schools are around you that you could realistically attend on a daily or weekly basis? Those living in a major city will inevitably have more options than those living in the suburbs or in the country. You need to first find out what is around you and then decide which discipline (if any are available) you want to pursue.

Historically, the Marine Corps has taught a fighting “system” known as line training that incorporated different offensive and defensive moves for a Marine to use in combat. These moves were few and didn’t allow much room for interpretation.
A few years back, the Marine Corps got smart and started developing the Marine Corps Martial Arts Program (MCMAP). They realized that you had to give Marines tools to help them succeed in both a war time and peacekeeping environment. If you only teach a Marine how to kill, what does he do when he is merely trying to detain someone? In this era of conflict, Marines need to be able to employ both deadly force and less-than-lethal force. To that end, the Marine Corps took several high ranking Marines who had been studying various martial arts for a long period of time and tasked them with designing a course specifically tailored for the Marine Corps mission. The men chose moves from a broad range of martial arts disciplines that would help in accomplishing their goal, put it together in an easy to understand, progressive system, and then added some warrior ethos and values to it. The result is the MCMAP we have today. The reason I bring this up is because the Marine Corps, with all their money, war-fighting experience, and required testing of new programs, didn’t decide on just one particular martial art. Why? Because one particular martial art form that had everything the Marine Corps needed didn’t exist. The same is true for those wanting to learn self-defense. Some martial art forms focus on kicks and strikes, while others focus on take-downs and grappling. Karate, Tae-Kwon-Do, Jiu Jitsu, kickboxing, and even wrestling and boxing all have some useful aspects but lack in one area or another. You need a discipline that has taken a little bit from every form, shed the non-essentials, and put it together in an easy to understand and applicable manner. I will talk about two forms that do this, one because of its’ popularity and the other because of its’ effectiveness: Mixed Martial Arts (MMA) and Krav Maga.

MMA gained popularity in the mid ‘90’s through the Ultimate Fighting Championship.  Those of you who are true fans remember the days when there were no gloves and the 180 pound Brazilian Jiu Jitsu guy could fight a 220 pound Pancrase practitioner.  Ninjitsu fought street fighter, Muay Thai vs. Sumo wrestler, and boxing vs. Karate.  Over time, the contestants realized that you had to have both a good stand-up and ground game so they began truly learning mixed martial arts.  In fact, that is what it is called today.  I included MMA because it is the popular and "cool" thing right now...but it isn't necessarily the best choice when it comes to self-defense.  This style of fighting is geared towards the MMA sport which obviously does not allow eye gouging, strikes to the throat, small joint manipulation like breaking fingers, and a multitude of other extremely harmful moves that would degrade the sport but would be a life saver during an attack.  Krav Maga on the other hand, is a different story.

Krav Maga was developed to do exactly what we would like to achieve today: end a fight as quickly and efficiently as possible.  I will let you the reader do your own research on its history and progression, (and I suggest you do it because you may find it interesting) and I will stick to discussing the pros and cons as I see them.
As I mentioned above, Krav Maga is a brutal and effective method of fighting and can be practiced by virtually anyone.  It does not require you to break boards, do flying jump kicks through the air, or waste a lot of money buying uniform items.  You will learn the quickest way to defend against an attack and neutralize your opponent.  And since there is less "fluff" involved in Krav Maga, you will be able to take the skills you learn in the first couple of courses and apply them to your life directly. 
The only con I foresee with this discipline is that, depending on where you live, it may not be as available as other martial arts.
Once you do a little reading yourself I think you will find that I have said all I need to on Krav Maga, I don’t want to waste your time by having you read the same information twice (I will post a few links below to point you in the right direction).  If you find that there isn’t a Krav Maga school available to you, or the instructors there are lacking for one reason or another, I would still encourage you to try some form of martial art or self-defense course that is offered. Equipment fails and weapons are not always available, but the weapons organic to your body are ever present.

When I first published this post you may have been expecting an overview of the many different kinds of martial arts and their pros and cons, along with a brief history. I purposely did not do that because I am not trying to make the case for Krav Maga, I am simply stating my recommendation. It is ultimately up to you to decide what works best for you and what you are comfortable with. Any form of self-defense is better than none. The internet and library are full of information on different martial arts so you can do your own research and come to an intelligent conclusion, my job is to simply point out what to look and watch out for when choosing a self-defense course or martial art. Again, if you have any questions or comments feel free to contact me.
Ciao!

http://www.krav-maga.com/

http://www.commandokravmaga.com/html/index.html

http://kravmaga-ikmf.com/

Here is a great book authored by two of the virtual plank holders of the art: Krav Maga: How to Defend Yourself Against Armed Assault

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Non-Lethal Defensive Weapons

As with all categories dealing with weapons, I will begin by stating this:

*Every weapon is designed to harm or in some way incapacitate a subject. They do not know right from wrong and they do not take sides. It is up to you the user to develop the mindset needed to employ that weapon, learn its functions, and learn how to care for and clean it. You will need to know the local laws concerning the carrying and employment of your weapon, and you must be ready to accept the physical and mental consequences of using your weapon, regardless of whether it was a justified action or not. Only then, when you’ve done all that, should you learn how to properly use it. *

Non-lethal defensive weapons are most commonly used to encourage an attacker to stop his attack and look elsewhere, or immobilize him long enough for you to get away. Very rarely will a novice use this weapon in order to gain the advantage and overpower an attacker until help arrives. That being said, non-lethal weapons should not be counted on to end an attack. Follow-on action must be taken by you to evade the attacker and leave the danger zone. Know this and plan for it.

Below will be a list of non-lethal defensive weapons you may use for certain situations. First I will describe the weapon, and then I will give a few examples in which they could be used. Lastly, I will cover some pros and cons of each.

• Flashlight - We all know what a flashlight is. A good flashlight, however, can be utilized to temporarily blind an attacker. In this case size isn’t always indicative of its effectiveness. Surefire makes a great flashlight for this purpose. The lumens of the lamps (meaning the power of the light) range from 65 to 150, depending on which one you purchase. They also make a few that have notched bezels that can be used to strike an opponent. The best use for this weapon is in low-light to no light conditions; however, it is still powerful enough to be somewhat effective when used in visible conditions.
• Cons: The Surefire flashlight is considerably more expensive than regular lights and so are its batteries. The higher lamp output (lumens) the shorter your battery life will be, and its effect as a weapon is only temporary. Also, as with all lights, by utilizing it you are giving away your position.
• Pros: The small design of a Surefire (most fit in the palm of your hand) and its reduced weight will make it a more convenient light to carry on your person or use in conjunction with another weapon. The rugged design will ensure that the light continues working even after being dropped or used to assault an attacker. Lights are also legal to carry anywhere, so you don’t have to worry about identifying the places you can and can’t legally carry it. They allow you to defend yourself from several feet away. The amount of training needed to effectively employ this item is minimal. Surefire has several lights that can be mounted on the end of a handgun or long gun and activated by either a switch or pressure pad, freeing up your hands. Though you will most probably give away your position when you use your light, you will also be able to indentify your target and decide on the appropriate action. Keep this in mind when you have teenage children that may try to sneak in or out after curfew and significant others who may want to surprise you by coming home early. I am not intentionally endorsing the Surefire brand but I have been using it in and out of the military for close to 10 years now and I have never had a problem.

• Mace/OC/Pepper Spray - Small aerosol can filled with a mixture that should temporarily incapacitate an attacker when sprayed in the eyes and mouth. There are many different kinds of these products on the market and I have not, thank goodness, had to try all of them. I suggest you do some independent reading on these products, their safety, and their effect starting with this article: http://www.defense-technology.com/pdfs/resources/oc%20and%20pepper%20sprays.pdf  The one I have been exposed to and certified with is the MK-4 from First Defense. We stood several feet away, with our eyes closed and hands behind our backs, and were sprayed in a Z patter starting from our forehead and ending at our chin. We were then instructed to open our eyes and look at the deliverer of evil who told us to go! From there we had to run to several stations that involved fighting off opponents with our hands, feet, and a baton, protecting ourselves from the blows of three guys with bags, and it ended with us having to subdue an individual in a full body suit utilizing the correct techniques and then cuffing them while still maintaining control of our baton. The time limit at each station depended on our motivation and the correct performance of each technique. It was grueling but we learned a lot. There is a high probability of contaminating yourself while trying to spray an opponent, or being contaminated by an attacker you have sprayed who is still continuing to fight so knowing the effects of your chosen self-defense spray and how to cope if you are accidentally contaminated is a must. Personally, it felt like I had literally stuck my face in a fire and it stayed that way for about 20 minutes. My eyes were pouring with tears, snot was running down my face, I could barely draw a breath, and though I could still function my strength was greatly reduced. Even after it stopped burning, I could hardly focus my eyes…they kept crossing. When we were finally able to take a proper shower, the ingredients reactivated and I started burning all over again, though not to the degree of when I was first sprayed. The usual delivery method is in a stream, cone, or fog. Some companies have also incorporated dye into their products that enables police to identify attackers after you have sprayed them.
• Cons: Self-defense sprays are not allowed in certain places, such as on an airplane or sports arenas. Using them in crowded areas like a bar or restaurant may not only be illegal, but also could cause unintended consequences such as a stampede. They do have a shelf life. Actually hitting your targets face may be difficult in a stressful situation, you could contaminate yourself, and lastly, some people may just not be affected. On one notable occasion while in Africa, a man who was high on cot was sprayed directly in his open eyes from barely 3 feet away and absolutely nothing happened. He blinked a few times and continued to struggle.
• Pros: If you hit your opponents face, the chance that he will stop his attack is great. Not only will he stop his attack, but he may be so affected that you will be able to subdue him and hold him until the police arrive. Most sprays are inexpensive and are even sold as keychain items. They allow you to defend yourself from several feet away. Small canisters are easily stored on your person, in your car, or in your home and can be employed fairly quickly. The amount of training needed to properly use this item is minimal.

• Expandable Baton - Small metal baton that expands up to several feet in length used to either fight off an attacker or control him. I have listed this as a non-lethal item but, depending on where you strike, it can be lethal as well. ASP is the leading manufacturer of these types of batons and they are usually made of either aluminum or steel, aluminum being lighter but a little weaker. They come in several different sizes and they are all priced around $80. In order to effectively use this weapon, I highly recommend taking a few courses. Batons can be wielded as bats but you have a much better chance of defending yourself from an assault if you know how to properly employ the baton and the most effective places to attack the human body.
• Cons: Requires professional training to be employed properly. You must be close to the attacker to be effective. Potential of inflicting unintended serious injuries or death to an opponent exists. Cannot be carried everywhere and are difficult to use in small spaces.
• Pros: Relatively light weight and compact. Easily concealed and carried on your person or in your vehicle. Can be deployed quickly. Batons are low cost and rugged. When used properly, they can incapacitate an attacker thus ending the fight.

• Keychain Tools -  I made up the name for this category as there are many different varieties of these types of weapons. Some of the more notable are the Kerambit, Wrench, Koga, Kubaton, and Sharkie. They are small, blunt object weapons made from hard plastic that work great in a pinch but should not be carried as your primary self-defense weapon. They operate by the user gripping the item and striking an attacker, either causing them to flee or potentially stunning them long enough for you to flee or follow-up with a more effective counter-attack.
• Cons: Due to the size of the item, you have to be within touching distance of the attacker. The effectiveness of this weapon is dependent on your strength and/or skill. Violence of action is a must because one strike will more than likely not be enough to halt an attack, so you must hit them again and again. Cannot be carried everywhere.
• Pros: Extremely cheap. Small and compact, easily carried on your person. Easily employed. Training is available for these types of weapons but not really necessary since they shouldn’t be relied on as your only means of defense. Because of their small size, the element of surprise is on your side when fighting off an attacker.

• Tasers - Tasers launch a two-pronged projectile into an assailant, and then incapacitates them by electrically interrupting the brain’s ability to control the muscles in the body. TASER is the premier manufacturer of this item and when dealing with equipment that has a lot of moving parts, the brands trusted by the military and law enforcement should be the ones you consider. I wouldn’t say that you need formal training with this item, but at least practice deploying it. Also, ensure you check with your college campus and/or your local laws concerning their governance of this piece of gear.
• Cons: Usually only get one shot, though they do make some that give you up to three. Hitting your target could be difficult in a stressful situation. There have been cases reported of people dying after being tased. It’s rather bulky to carry on your person and hard to conceal unless you have a purse. They are expensive.  Thick clothing may stop the prongs from entering the body, rendering it useless.  Think winter or "cool" leather jacktes.
• Pros: Easy to employ. Completely incapacitates an attacker. Can be used several feet away from the threat. May be mistaken for a real gun, ending the situation without any further action. Good tasers are rugged and reliable. Light weight. Can be deployed quickly. Because the prongs stick into the assailant’s skin, you have the ability to continue to control him until help arrives. 

• Stun Guns - Work much the same way as a taser, just without firing the barbed prongs. There are two metal prongs at the end of the stun gun that create an arc of electricity, and when you touch a person with that arc, they are affected. Again, make sure you check with your college campus and/or local laws for compliance.
• Cons: Have to be extremely close to your attacker. There have been cases reported of people dying after being hit with a stun gun. It’s rather bulky to carry on your person and hard to conceal unless you have a purse. They are expensive.
• Pros: Easy to employ. Hitting your target should be easy as you have to be close enough to touch the person in order to use it. Completely incapacitates an attacker, but the draw back here is that to maintain control of an assailant, you have to stay close enough to keep stunning them. Good stun guns are rugged and reliable. Light weight. Can be deployed quickly.

These are some of the most popular weapons made specifically for self-defense. If you have any questions concerning the use, training, employment, or brands please feel free to contact me.
Cheers!

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Security Merchandise

Following on the tail of Medical Equipment, we will now begin talking about tools that you can purchase to enhance you’re security. The main categories to be discussed will be as follows:
Alarm Systems
Alarms
Miscellaneous

Alarm Systems:
If you can afford it, I highly recommend putting this at the top of your “to get” list. They are absolutely invaluable in terms of both protecting your property and giving you peace of mind. The upfront cost will set you back a couple hundred dollars and then the monthly fee will be around $40-$60. If you are strapped for cash, the initial cost could be covered by a tax refund check. Then, instead of spending over $100 a month on your super-duper cell phone, you could downgrade to a plan that only costs around $40 and use what you save to cover the monthly bill. Also, most insurance companies will give you a discount for having an alarm system that is monitored. Don’t be fooled, however, by the fast talking salesman. He might show you a sheet detailing the percentage major insurance companies may take off your bill but that is only in the BEST case scenario; like having a fire department, police station, and hospital as neighbors. My salesman told me 12% but when I called my insurance company it was only 4%. That’s a big difference when you are talking insurance payments.
When choosing an alarm company, go with a reputable one. ADT or Broadview (formerly Brinks) are two of the more popular ones. This is not a job for your local no name security “firm”. Once you make contact with them, they will usually send a representative to your home to discuss packages, plans and devices. Listen to them but also think for yourself. The goal is to create an invisible security fence around your home so protecting all possible entrances should be your objective. Money may be a prohibiting factor, but ensure you protect the most important. Some of the devices that might or should be offered are door and window contacts, glass breaks, motion detectors, and fire monitoring. They may offer cameras as well but this blog is for the novice so I will not get into that. If you want some advice concerning them just leave a comment.

• Door and window contacts are devices that detect if a door or window has been moved past a certain point.
• Glass breaks are triggered by the sound of breaking glass.
• Motion detectors detect just that, motion. The company representative will usually inform you on just how big an object has to be to set off a motion detector.
• Fire monitoring devices will detect a fire.

Here are a few tips when deciding on what type and where to put certain devices:

• Not every door in your home needs to be protected, only the ones leading to the outside. If you have a door (besides the garage door) leading into your garage, and then another door leading from the garage into your dwelling, consider just protecting the very outside entrance. That way an intruder will immediately set off the alarm but will still have to get through another door to enter your house, the contents of your garage will be protected, and you will save money by not buying another door contact. If you are concerned about somebody coming through your actual garage door, put a motion detector in your garage as well. That way you will be confident that that area of your house is secure. Any other door that you may have in your home that leads to the outside needs to be protected.
• Window contacts can become expensive if you are trying to protect every window. When money is a concern, protect only the ground floor windows, or the windows to you and your kid’s bedrooms. If that is still too expensive, think about placing a motion detector in an area that would cover several windows, thus cutting down on the number of devices needed.
• Glass breaks are double protection for windows. Remember, window contacts work when a window is opened. If an intruder breaks a window, the contact is rendered useless. Again, if you are made of money by all means protect every window in your home. If not, put them in the most useful spots. I highly recommend installing a glass break if you have a sliding glass door. Most of your household goods can be shipped right out of your house through them, and if an intruder didn’t sever the contact, nobody will be alerted.
• Motion detectors can be both a hindrance and effective tool. When you are home, you can usually set your alarm in a certain way that will turn on everything accept motion detectors, allowing you freedom of movement. When you leave, you can program it another way that turns on everything, including the motion detectors. This is wonderful unless you have a large animal, such as a dog or pig running around your house (a buddy of mine had a Vietnamese Pot-Bellied pig as a pet, not lying). If your animal has the run of the house while you are absent, then motion detectors are a no-go. If you can keep it penned up somewhere out of the way, then good for you. Another potential issue is your own movement throughout the house if you turn them on at night. This will be a decision you will have to make for yourself.
• Fire monitoring devices are self explanatory. The layout of your home and also its size will determine how many you need and where they should go. Let the alarm representative deal with this one.

Now that we have discussed some of the alarm devices that should be offered, their usage, and their appropriate placement, let’s talk about the way that they are monitored.

Most professional alarm companies will have a monitoring center that will monitor all of their client’s households 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. If an alarm is tripped, they will usually call the contact number you provided to investigate the issue and then alert the appropriate authorities if need be. The way companies monitor your system is through either your home phone line, cellular signal, or both. The preferred method is both since one acts as a back-up for the other.  High winds, snowstorms, and vehicle accidents can all render your home line useless. Intruders can also cut your phone line. Either situation will leave you unprotected.

The ability to connect your system to a cellular signal will depend on where you live, as not all areas can receive a cell signal strong enough for an alarm system to be reliable. If you are able to get a signal, you are still dependent on that cell services ability to keep their operation running. In late July of 2010, AT&T had an interruption in their wireless cell service that not only affected cell phones, but also the alarm systems that utilized them. Most users in the eastern region of the United States were without signal for at least a couple of days.

Alarm systems for your vehicle are becoming standard. Most are operated by the press of a button on your key and are triggered by the opening of a door or trunk. If you do not have one and intend on keeping sensitive items in your car, think about purchasing one. You can find them at most retail stores that have an automotive department or at your local sound system business. Since there are many options available to you concerning this product you should do your own research into which one is right for you. I will suggest that you have a professional install it as many electronic problems can arise if you do not know what you are doing. Some vehicles come with services such as OnStar that will monitor your car much like the home alarm systems discussed above. They know where you are at as long as you have a GPS signal, can dispatch emergency services to you if need be, and can inform you when an alarm has been triggered. All of this requires a monthly monitoring fee of course.

Alarm systems are a great security tool, but may not always be affordable or practical. Many apartments will not allow you to install your own system, hotels definitely will not nor would you probably want to, and sometimes you just don’t have the money. Next, we will talk about how to overcome these obstacles and still maintain your security, or at least the appearance of security.

Alarms:

Let’s discuss the home first. We will assume that you are on a tight budget and just cannot afford to dish out the large sums of money needed to fund and maintain a properly monitored security system. There are home security systems on the market that cost hundreds of dollars less, but the only catch is that they are not monitored by a central service. Some you can program to dial preset numbers automatically when an alarm is triggered, such as 911 or your personal cell phone, but be prepared for tickets from your local emergency services for false alarms. This would be my first recommendation.

Secondly, there are inexpensive alarms available that are mobile, run off batteries, and simply create a high decibel sound when triggered. Most are big and rather ugly but there are a few, such as the door stop alarm, that is the size and has the looks of a doorstop. Put these under your doors at night and if someone enters it will not only set it off, but also make it harder for the intruder to get in.

There is dummy equipment on the market. These items look like the real thing and may even have a little red light indicating that they are working, but they are not. These come cheap and will create the facade that your home is protected. This is especially good if you host parties where you may not know all the guests.

Lastly, if you are familiar with someone who is being monitored by a proper security company such as ADT you should consider asking them to order you a few yard signs and stickers regardless if you bought any security equipment or not. Potential intruders or burglars will see these and may automatically cross you off their list of targets in favor of a home they think is unprotected.

All the equipment I listed above for the home can also be applied to your apartment, minus the yard signs and stickers of course. Even if your apartment comes with an alarm system, ensure that there are no gaps in your security. If there are, fix it!

Phony car alarms exist as well. These devices will emit a blinking red light fooling a thief into thinking that your car is protected.

When dealing with hotels/motels and college dorms, you are pretty much limited to mobile security devices. The only other recommendation I will make not covered above is getting a nanny cam so you can be absolutely sure your items were not pilfered, and if they were, you can pursue legal action. Most hotels and colleges do not accept responsibility for lost or stolen items and just because you put a “do not disturb” sign on your hotel door doesn’t mean the staff will adhere to it. If you’ve done any extensive traveling you have probably run into this problem before, I sure have.

Next I will simply list some devices that I may have already covered and other devices that wouldn’t be considered alarms but can be used to enhance your security. I will refer to this list throughout later posts in this blog so keep that in mind.

Miscellaneous:

• Wireless Alarm System-Already covered
• Door Stop Alarm-Already covered
• Door Contact Alarm-Already covered
• Window Contact Alarm-Already covered
• Motion Sensor Alarm-Already covered
• Glass Break Alarm-Already covered
• Fake Door Contact-Already covered
• Fake Window Contact-Already covered
• Fake Motion Sensor-Already covered
• Fake Car Alarm-Already covered
• Nanny Cam-Discreet, portable video camera designed to covertly record any area you designate.
• Wireless Motion Alarm-Can be used in any small space such as your car or hotel room. Detects the change in air pressure due to the opening of a door and emits a high decibel alarm.
• Outdoor Motion Lighting-Mounted outside and activates when it detects motion.
• Time Switches-Turns on your lights at a preset time.
• Indoor Motion Light-Turns on your interior lights when it detects motion.
• Key Chain Alarm- Attaches to your key chain and emits a high decibel alarm when you activate it.
• Large Rear view Mirror-It is larger than a normal rear view mirror and is great in enhancing your ability to detect someone following you. It also allows you to see more of the traffic around you creating a safer driving environment.

This concludes my post on Security Merchandise. If you have any questions or comments please feel free to submit them. As the topics become more in-depth, the time between postings may lengthen. This is necessary to ensure that the content is as accurate and informative as possible. Thank you for bearing with me.

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