On-Line Predators

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More to come soon, I apologize for the delay but I have made a job change and have moved across the country so please bear with me in my absence!

Security for the Teen Male

Sorry for my long absence, with the holidays and work things have been a bit hectic.  Staying with the short posts for now, let’s discuss security for the teen male.

Teen males have a bit of a different security issue to deal with than females.  Males in their teens generally fall into one or two of three categories; they can be the leader, follower, or a loner.  And to clarify, being a loner is not necessarily a bad thing.  They can be the kind of loner that all of you may be thinking of, the kind that doesn’t fit in and may have anger and self-esteem issues.  But there are also those that are just quiet.  They get good grades, have a high self esteem, but for whatever reason don’t socialize according to the “norm”. 

Leaders:  Leaders can also fall into two separate categories; they can either be the alpha male jocks that others look up to in a positive way (for the most part) or they can be the bully that others look up to in a negative way.  This class may have the highest security issues due to the very nature of their personality and their attempt to maintain their popularity.  Because of their personality everyone takes notice of them, both the good and the bad elements.  For example, let’s say that Johnny is the most popular kid at school and he is going to throw a party…who is going to come?  That’s right!  EVERYONE.  From my own personal experiences, mass parties usually teeter on the brink of chaos and there is no way that one guy can regulate all of those people.  Things will be broken and stolen and fights will most probably break out, especially if alcohol is involved.  Also, because of his popularity he will probably have more face time with more people which could lead to more anger direct towards him.  Think of the less popular kid, who doesn’t have such an alluring personality, watching his girlfriend flirt and make ga ga eyes at Johnny.  I’ve seen it happen plenty of times.  Common sense tells us to drop the girl and find someone who really cares about you.  But almost all teens lack common sense at this age, especially when females are involved.  Now Johnny may have become a target and he doesn’t even know it.   The bully, on the other hand, makes enemies more directly.  But due to his confidence and perceived invincibility from those whom he torments may feel as if there will never be any ramifications for his actions.  Bullying has seen a decline in recent years after the many high profile suicides and shootings shown on national television resulted in sweeping reforms throughout the U.S., mostly in the educational arena.  Many schools now have a “no tolerance” policy towards bullying, harsher punishments specifically for bullying, and workshops for the teachers on how to recognize bullying and how to stop it starting at the elementary level.  

While the first line of defense for these “leaders” continues to be and has to be themselves, parents, peers, and role models come in a close second.  At this stage in life, many teens feel 10ft. tall and bullet proof and think nothing bad can ever happen to them.  It is up to the adults who care for the individual to discuss potential dangers with him and ensure that they are at least aware of the negative consequences that could come from being on “top”.   Parents also need to be mindful of the fact that their property could become collateral damage in any dispute their son may currently be involved in, even if he doesn’t know he is in a dispute  (yard jobs, house or cars being egged, house being toilet papered, broken windows, keyed cars…).

Followers:  The main concern with followers is that they can be loose cannons.  Leaders set the pace with their actions and personalities and a lot of followers try to imitate them and bask in the residuals they get just by being around them.  Some followers, however, feel the need to be recognized by the leader or outshine him in order to steal some of the spotlight and to that end will go above and beyond what their leader, who is already pushing the boundaries, would do.  Consider the leader who, at a party, decides to drag race his car down the street for a bit to the whistles and applause from the audience.  Seeing his chance, the follower does the same thing but needs to go faster and drive more recklessly in order to show that he can be better than the leader.  Or in the case of the bully, imagine the follower one-upping his leader and instead of throwing eggs at a car decides to throw rocks to show he has “balls”.  I mention these scenarios because I have seen them, and more, first hand. 

Again, in order to minimize the security threat the same recommendation I gave for the leader can also apply to follower. 

Loner:   The bad loner, the one everyone thinks of when you mention loner, can potentially be a real threat to himself and others.  The fact that he is a loner isn’t the issue, it is the why?  Early intervention from the key players mentioned above is critical.  There are a lot of reasons one could be a loner but more than likely, as a teen, he will see some negative responses because of it from his peers.  The good loner is usually the “safest” of the bunch due to his self esteem and low profile.  Most people leave him alone because they don’t really know he is there or he is easily forgettable, and those that do pick on him are immediately confronted either by the individual or those around him that feel the need to protect him, or he tells someone who can help. 

You may notice that this post has differed from the female version in that the female version I identified specific threats towards the girls that they may face.  In this post I gave an overview of the categories teen males typically fall into and what kind of security issues they may face because of it.  Males have it easy in the sense that if they keep to themselves, stay out of other people’s business, and ensure that their actions only affect themselves or others in a positive way they can expect to remain relatively safe except for the occasional random act of violence.  The problem is that we are males.  We don’t keep to ourselves a lot of the times, we put our nose in other people’s business for whatever reason, and have an “it’s a free country so sorry if your feelings are hurt by my actions” type attitude.  And males, as my wife constantly points out, differ from females in that we usually can’t put on a happy face for those that we don’t get along with like women can.  When men piss each other off, most of the time we take care of it on the spot and that is the end of it….usually.  That kind of conflict resolution makes it almost impossible to sit here and write contingencies for every situation that pops up, which is why I generalized it.  The important take-away here is to know your teen, know what he’s about, and guide him through the rollercoaster ride until he finds himself.  Be a parent, be a mentor, and be a role model. 

Security for the Teen Female

I have been getting feedback that I should shorten my posts so they are not so time consuming to read.   I will try it with this post but would like more feedback on if I should continue this way or go back to including all relevant information.  Thanks!

I have split up the categories such as teen female and teen male because each are unique in their circumstance.  Males have a different set of worries than females so they should be discussed separately in order to maximize safety.  Teens, regardless of gender, are at their most vulnerable during this stage in life.  They are trying to find out who they are and tend to either be a pack leader or follower.  As parents know, either path can lead to problems.  I am speaking strictly from an American point of few as many different countries have different views concerning girls and women and other countries also have a higher rate of sex crimes such as prostitution and trafficking that I am not qualified to comment or give advice on 

The main issue with girls at this age deals with sex.  Hormones on both sides are raging, they finally have the freedom to act on their emotions, and they want to feel in control of their lives.  I’m not making a case for abstinence; I’m simply saying that a lot of safety concerns for teen girls are of a sexual nature.   Not only are boys of the same age taking an interest, but men with much more experience in manipulation are unfortunately also taking an interest.  You the female need to be aware of this and on your guard. 

First and foremost, you need to be upfront with males.  They can’t process subtleties when their hormones are raging.  If you want a guy to leave you alone you have to draw a clear line.  I know it is not in most girls’ nature to be “rude” and tell a guy to stop calling but it needs to happen.  Ignoring their phone calls or blowing them off when they talk to you will not make them “get the hint”.  The guy will merely think that he needs to try harder.  If the situation persists, tell somebody.  Make it known.  Tell your parents, tell your girlfriends, tell your other guy friends, or tell your teachers.  Whoever you feel comfortable with.  You should definitely tell someone if an adult man is interested in you, regardless if he is pestering you or not.  Tread carefully and listen to your friends and your instincts.  If it doesn’t feel right it probably isn’t.

Know who you are getting involved with.  If you like a guy that you don’t know very well, guard your personal information closely.  Don’t let him drop you off at home, don’t befriend him on Facebook or MySpace or any other social site where you have a lot of personal information available, and don’t give out your home telephone number.  Also, don’t allow yourself to be alone with him in a private setting until you are sure of his intentions.  Do your own research.  See if you can find him on Facebook.  Go through his pictures and wall posts if you are able and get a feel for what kind of friends this guy has and what he likes to do. 

I will hit internet security pretty hard in another post but for now I will throw out these few tips:  Do not add your home phone number to the white pages listing.  While there are other ways to find out your address or phone number through the internet, don’t make it too easy.  Ensure that you make everything private or “friends only” on your social sites, and then only add people you know.  Facebook has added a new application that allows you to post your current location, and also allows others to post your current location.  If you need help disabling that let me know.   Stay away from chat rooms and web cams. 

Watch your drinks at parties, and if you go to the bathroom make sure somebody else is watching it.  I’m a grown man and I still have someone watch my drink. 

Always have a way out at parties, ensure that there is someone available and reliable who can come and pick you up regardless of the time or place. 

If you are going out with a guy, ensure somebody knows where you are going and when you should be back.

You need to make a decision about sex before you and your guy are naked rolling around on the bed or wherever.  Most men see a “making out” session as a prelude to sex, while the girl simply views it as a wonderful time being together.  If you are not willing to go all the way, keep the “making out” and fondling  limited to someplace at least semi-public and again, set clear boundaries.  Every guy should respect a girl’s wish when she says no, but what if he doesn’t?  You can’t walk into a known bad neighborhood and then be surprised when you get mugged or assaulted.  You have to take some ownership for your actions and decisions, you have to be smart. 

Lastly, be aware of your surroundings.  I’ve covered how to do this in previous posts so if you haven’t read it go back and do so.  It will go a long way in keeping you out of trouble!

Again, this is the first time I’ve attempted to write a shorter post while maintaining the blog’s integrity.  If you like it and it still helps, please let me know.  If you think more sustenance is helpful tell me.

Either way I hope you learned something.

Canines for Security

Using canines to augment your security plan can be a great idea depending on your circumstances.   In this post I will cover a few things to think about when deciding if a dog is right for you, and I will also touch on a few breeds to help get you started.

When owning any pet, it is important that you ensure that you have the time, money, and ability to tend to its needs.  I suggest that after deciding on a particular dog, you check with your vet BEFORE you purchase it in order to find out all the ins and outs associating with your choice.  They will be able to tell you approximately how much you will have to spend yearly in vet bills for shots, check-ups, and preventative medicine (heartworm, flea and tick).  They will also be able to tell you any problems usually associated with your chosen breed (which you should already know from doing research) such as hip dysplasia.  You should also check with a few local dog training companies to see how much classes cost if you find that your pet needs some additional, professional guidance when it comes to behavior. 

Instead of re-inventing the wheel, the majority of the information that follows has been cited from http://www.homesecurityguru.com/recommended-watchdog-breeds.  It covers basically the same information I intended to but I will add an “Employment” section at the end in order to cover some tips in actually employing your guard/watch dog.

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"Throughout history one of the most popular ways to enhance home security has been through the usage of trained dogs. However, in choosing which to dog to guard your family or property you should way different options carefully, depending on your particular circumstances.

Family Watchdogs vs. Guard Dogs

One of the common misconceptions among dog owners is that watchdog is simply another name for guard dog. In essence, a watch dog acts as an alert, barking to warn occupants of approaching strangers. Many breeds of dogs, including miniatures such as Chihuahuas, may fit this role.

A guard dog, on the other hand, possesses the physical capability to render a would-be assailant incapable of harming the dog's owner either through restraint or injury.

Recommend Breeds as Guard Dogs

People wishing to adopt watch dogs or guard dogs should examine a number of factors before deciding which breed is best for them. Various breeds of dog naturally show different characteristics. These include:

A sense of the dog's territory

Aggressiveness

Strength

Courage

Resistance to counterattack

Tendency to protect the dog's adoptive family

Propensity to be properly trained

Aloofness to strangers is also regarded as a virtue because as aloof dogs are not swayed by superficial attempts at friendship. Although the dogs generally enjoy their role of protecting the entire property, a lone dog is also susceptible to attack from an armed intruder. The owner should note that a dog guards the family best within the house during hours when intrusion is most likely.

If a burglar is able to break into a house in an area which the guard dog outside cannot reach, the protection is moot.

Bull Mastiff - Many regard the Bull Mastiff as the ideal guard dog. These dogs are very strong, possessing a heavy amount of bulk and muscle. It is also an intelligent breed and highly alert, as well as very courageous. Despite its physical gifts and lack of fear, it is docile within a family environment, making it a good pet.

Doberman Pinscher - The Doberman Pinscher makes another fine guard dog. Like the bull mastiff, they are also strong, intelligent, alert, and fearless. However, they are also loyal and obedient to family. They are also quite fast runners and this characteristic may be advantageous for homeowners with large lots who need a guard dog that is able to reach a possible security breach quickly. Female Dobermans are thought to be more protective of family and more obedient, while males are more adept as finding solutions to problems.

Rottweiller - Rottweilers also serve well as guard dogs, possessing a combination of strength, confidence, and courage. They also show loyalty and a tendency to protect members of their adoptive families. Rottweillers tend to be aloof to strangers and are not swayed by superficial attempts at friendship.

Komodor - Not as well known as the other breeds, but another dog effective at providing guard duty is the Komodor. This dog is also powerfully built and courageous and was bred to guard flocks of sheep. It is loyal and faithful to its owner.

Puli - Pulis are very vigorous, active dogs originally bred as sheep dogs in Hungary. They make also good watchdogs as they have a suspicious nature.

Giant Schnauzer - The Giant Schnauzer is another strong and hardy dog that is also intelligent, alert, and courageous. They also adapt easily to training and are loyal. Thus, they also make good family pets.

German Shepherd - This breed retains a calm demeanor but is able to act when situations call for firmness or assistance, i.e., a good seeing-eye dog. It also retains a detached attitude that allows it to resist being swayed by superficial attempts at befriending.

Rhodesian Ridgeback - Rhodesian ridgebacks are strong and sturdy, fast dogs with even temperament. They are loyal to their owners but aloof to strangers.

Kuvasz - The Kuvasz represents another example of dogs fit for guard duty. It is a strongly muscled dog but also intelligent, loyal, and aloof to strangers. It is especially courageous and is even prone to self-sacrifice.

American Staffordshire Terrior - These dogs are strong and agile, as well as very courageous.

Chow Chow - Also strong and highly intelligent. The Chow Chow also does not automatically befriend strangers.

Belgian Sheepdog - These dogs are also strong, intelligent, courageous, alert, and devoted to their owners.

Belgian Malinois - The Belgian Malinois is strong and agile. It is typically aloof with strangers, but affectionate with its adoptive family.

Belgian Teruven - These dogs are also strong and agile. They are intelligent, courageous, and alert. They are protective of their owners.

Dogo Argentino - The Dogo Argentino (Argentine Mastiff) is another strong, intelligent, and even-tempered breed with exceptionally powerful jaws. They also often make good family pets, but can be aggressive towards other dogs.

Tosa Inu - The Tosa Inu will fiercely guard family members, however it rarely barks and therefore does not present a proactive deterrent.

South-African Boerboel - This breed is also large and strong as well as intelligent and obedient. It is noted as a breed that will guard the home without fail, but will only become aggressive when necessary.

Neapolitan Mastiff and Bulldog - These dogs are also very large and strong, as well as imposing. It is loyal to its owner and even-tempered. It is aggressive when necessary.

Cane Corso - Also strong and intelligent as well as brave and loyal, the Cane Corso (Italian Mastiff) also makes an excellent pet for the entire family.

Bouvier des Flandres - This dog is not as large as the mastiff or bulldog, but it is strong, intelligent, and alert, as well as even-tempered.

Thai Ridgebacks - The Thai Ridgeback is alert and attentive to its owner. However, it can be difficult to train and needs strong oversight from its owner.

Beauceron - The Beauceron is also strong, intelligent, couageous, and obedient although some will display a degree of independence.

Other dogs noted as suitable for guard duty include the Ca de Bou, Akita Inu, Fila Brasileiro, Ovcharka, and the Dogue de Bordeaux. Other factors that potential dog owners may wish to consider include gender and color. As a general rule, females of many breeds may be less aggressive, however more protective of family members.

Although a dog's color has no direct correlation to its physical gifts or temperament, a darker dog, especially a black one, appears more menacing to would-be intruders. Also if a room or yard is very dark, a dark-colored dog may be difficult for an intruder to discern and make the intruder more hesitant.

Some dogs, such as many kinds of Pit Bull Terrier and the Presa de Canario have been used extensively as guard dogs. However, controversy surrounding these dogs have led many to distance themselves from them. Some jurisdictions have banned the ownership of these dogs altogether.

It is important to note that dog attacks are not a common occurrence and much of the source of aggression in dogs stems from abuse and mistraining by the dogs' owners.

Recommended Breeds as Watchdogs

As stated above, watchdogs and guard dogs differ in that watch dogs only alert their owners when they see a stranger approaching. They neither attack nor attempt to restrain or injure would-be assailants or burglars.

Therefore, the list of recommended watchdogs includes many small breeds that bark liberally but afford no physical protection. They also compensate for a lack of physical prowess with excellent hearing.

Nevertheless, some guard dogs such as Rottweilers and German Shepherds also serve as good watchdogs and should be included in this list (Please reference text for these breeds in the Recommended Guard Dogs section above).Since it is mostly their barking ability that suits them as watchdogs, further explanations of their temperament are beyond the scope of this article.

Recommended breeds include

Scottish Terrier

West Highland White Terrier

Miniature Schnauzer

Yorkshire Terrier

Cairn Terrier

Chihuahua

Airedale Terrier

Poodle (standard/miniature)

Boston Terrier

Shih Tzu

Dachshund

Silky Terrier

Smooth Fox Terrier

Wire Fox Terrier

Miniature Pinscher

Less likely, but possibly inclined to bark include the Pomeranian, Toy Poodle, Welsh Corgi, Shetland Sheepdog, Lhasa Apso, Akita, Maltese Terrier, Pekingese, Boxer, Samoyed, English Springer Spaniel, Dalmatian, and Irish Setter.

Dogs to Avoid as Watch Dogs

Some of these dogs may very well make good pets, but their lack of inclination to bark makes them unfit for use as watchdogs. These include the Bloodhound, Newfoundland, Saint Bernard, Basset Hound, Bulldog, Old English Sheepdog, Clumber Spaniel, Irish Wolfhound, Scottish Deerhound, Pug, Siberian Husky, and Alaskan Malamute.

Care for Your Dog

The realization that you will be responsible for maintaining the well-being of your dog is an important factor when deciding to adopt one. It is important to remember that unlike other security measures such as lighting and fences, a dog is a living, breathing, feeling individual and thus requires and deserves attentive, serious care from its owner.

In addition, like any other investment, the care for your dog will ensure that it will provide you longer lasting security for you and your family.Also your dog will require special needs such as flea treatments and veterinary visits. Their size, demeanor, and disposition notwithstanding, almost every breed of dog requires companionship and love.

Most dogs require companionship and affection from the families and are eager to return it. Dogs not receiving such attention may be prone to psychological trauma. Like children, dogs do not come with instruction manuals. Prospective dog owners should consult experts on the care and well-being of their new dogs. They should also be aware that behavior for puppies will be different from that of full-grown dogs.

Fences are a concern for many dog owners. Those wishing to keep dogs on their property should erect fences high enough to disallow escape. When considering which kind of fence to buy consumers should remember that fences with high visual penetration allow outsiders to taunt dogs located inside the fence."


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Employment

As stated above, if your dog can not get to an area in which an intruder has invaded then it is reduced to a simple watch dog, regardless of the breed.  Crating a puppy at night and while you are gone is common when training it, but if you are still crating it as an adult you have done nothing to enhance your security.  You must make your dog part of the family, giving it free rein of the house if it is to be effective.  Also, keeping your dog fenced in outside will not deter an intruder who wants to enter your home. 

If you are utilizing motion sensors in your home security system, keep in mind that you may have to decide on whether you want your alarm system protecting your house while you are away or your dog.  Most dogs over 40lbs. will trigger motion detectors.  One option may be to crate or restrict your dog’s movement while you are away, leaving your motion sensors on, then turning them off at night and allowing your dog to do the work.  It’s a personal choice. 

Never rely solely on your dog to protect your home.  Use it to warn you of an intruder and stall (if it is a guard dog) him/them while you gather your wits about you and implement your security plan.  Those added seconds could mean the difference.  


p.s.  One breed left out that I feel should be added is the Caucasian Shepherd Dog (Kavkazskaïa Ovtcharka).  These are huge Molossers that are fiercely loyal and protective.  They tend to be more at home in the country or on land where they have freedom of movement.  Ideal for estate protection without groundskeepers unless the dog has been well socialized or knows the groundskeepers.  Below is a description:
"Caucasian Shepherds are typically assertive, brave, alert, strong, hardy and courageous to a fault. They are truly second to none in their bellicosity towards strangers. Unless properly socialized, they may exhibit unmanageable tendencies. They seldom have time for strangers (but will greet family friends warmly) and have extremely powerful guarding instincts. Everything and everyone who belongs to the family, including other dogs will be regarded by this dog as part of its family and as such will fall under its guardianship. Owing to their size and nature these dogs should not be left alone with children. Aggression toward unknown dogs should be expected unless the animal has been extensively socialized at an early age and even then some unwanted behaviors may occur." (Wikipedia)

Weapons of Opportunity

Our next topic is one of my favorites!  I enjoy this subject because, at its core, it embodies man’s animalistic instincts. As a society, we have been taught that killing is wrong, that we should be nice to people and help them whenever we can. We frown upon children watching violent television and hand out punishment for aggressive behavior. This is all needed and justified in order for us to continue to live in a relatively safe environment, but everyone must admit that good times always come to an end. I’m not even talking about world war, think of something as recent as hurricane Katrina. Notice how fast the rule of law disappeared and what atrocities took place as a result. While we should all strive to maintain order by obeying the laws of our society, we should not forget that our very lives may depend on how quickly we can transform ourselves from law abiding citizens to instinct driven animals.

I am not posting a disclaimer because weapons of opportunity (WOO) would not necessarily be considered weapons at all. They can be anything that might be laying around that could help you win the fight. I will go over a few items at the end of this post to help get your mind going but I will focus more on trying to change your way of thinking in everyday life so that you the reader can prepare yourself for any situation regardless of where a moment of violence may happen to find you.

In order to become skilled at identifying WOO, try thinking of it as a game; wherever you are ask yourself "what could I use to protect myself and how?"  Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying that 100% of the time your mind should be focused on finding weapons, that would be stupid and unrealistic.  I maybe do it three to four times a day, more if I'm not already carrying a weapon.  Not even 20 minutes ago I was brushing my teeth in the bathroom and saw my wife's eyeliner pencil on the sink.  I automatically logged it into my brain as a potential weapon and then continued brushing my teeth.  It wasn't a eureka moment, it didn't interrupt what I was doing, it was a simple observation that was noted.  That is the way it should be.  Take note of what's available and how you would use it and then move on.  I am not going to go into scenario after scenario, just think about it and give it a shot.  The more you do it, the more you think about it, the less you will have to think about it.  It will just come naturally.

This is going to be a short post because WOO is self explanatory; it just takes practice from you the reader.
As promised, I will list a few things that I usually take notice of and keep in the back of my mind:

Wal-Mart - Wal-Mart and stores like Wal-Mart usually use a big metal peg board type design to hang a lot of their items on.  Think of the toy section with 6 of the same items hanging from a thin metal bar on the aisle.  Usually has the price right above it.  If you haven't noticed, those bars can come out and could work great as a stabbing tool, especially if your attacker is not expecting it.  Look next time.

Restaurant - Ketchup!  I don't know if you have ever gotten ketchup in your eyes but it burns...

Coffee - A cup of hot coffee is always ready to be thrown in someone's face.

Highway - Don't laugh, but I actually walked from Norfolk to Virginia Beach using the highway one time.  I was going to sleep on the beach but by the time I got there the sun was already up so I just ended up calling a cab to go home. (Was there alcohol involved...?)  But the point of this is is that I felt vulnerable walking along the highway so I had the presence of mind to stop and pick up two decent sized rocks I could do some bashing with if need be.

Home - You should be the master of your own home.  I know of a lot of things I could use as a weapon in every room if I needed it.  So should you.

Pens/Pencils - You've seen them used in movies and they are sometimes easy to forget about, but these items do make good stabbing tools.

Hopefully I got you thinking a little bit.  Even though I love this topic I don't want to drive it into the dirt.  If you have any questions or need help getting started let me know and I will do what I can.

Firearms and Knives

*Every weapon is designed to harm or in some way incapacitate a subject. They do not know right from wrong and they do not take sides. It is up to you the user to develop the mindset needed to employ that weapon, learn its functions, and learn how to care for and clean it. You will need to know the local laws concerning the carrying and employment of your weapon, and you must be ready to accept the physical and mental consequences of using your weapon, regardless of whether it was a justified action or not. Only then, when you’ve done all that, should you learn how to properly use it. *


On this topic, let me start off by saying that you should never, ever, ever, ever, carry a gun or knife for self-defense if you do not know how to use it or do not think you will be able to use it. Electing to carry these items can cause a host of problems but can also be the only thing that saves your life. It is strictly a personal decision.
The “host of problems” mentioned above mainly stems from users not knowing or understanding their local laws. Get to know them…and if you are still unsure tell a cop about how you intend to carry your weapon and see if you would be breaking any laws. You may not be allowed into some places while armed, especially bars. You’ll have to ensure that your kids can not get to your weapon. Just owning a gun could make you a target for thieves, whether it is in your house or car. Carrying it can be annoying and a mood killer. A dependable gun is expensive, and a good knife isn’t far behind. Speaking of cost, you should be forking over several hundred dollars for a gun (unless you get a deal) and you should also be spending about a hundred dollars a year for practice ammo in order to maintain your proficiency. Both of these items require initial training as well as sustainment training. I could go on but I think you get the point. Now on the flip side, a gun (especially at home), could be the only thing that keeps you or your family alive. Nothing says “go away” like the sound of a shotgun!


Firearms:
When talking firearms for self-defense, we will cover a few weapons to use while your at home and while you are out and about.   


1. Home
The absolute best weapon for home defense is the shotgun. Now, if you have visions of yourself clearing your house with a pistol or semi-automatic rifle as per Jack Bauer or James Bond, put them aside and listen to what I have to say for a sec. I’m going to run through the pro’s and con’s of a pistol, rifle, and shotgun in the home environment and show you why you should consider a shotgun first before any other firearm.  If you cannot for whatever reason get a shotgun, I will cover the best method for utilizing the other two tools as well.
    
     a. Pistol
     b. Rifle
     c. Shotgun


Pistol:
Pro’s – Pistol’s are relatively light and small. You can maneuver around corners and in tight spaces a lot easier and safer with a pistol than you can a rifle or shotgun. You can carry your pistol on you or stage several pistols throughout your house if you feel the need without them being intrusive.


Con’s – Pistols are fairly expensive. A quality one is going to set you back around $500 depending on where you get it. Due to the shorter barrel, it takes more skill to hit your target. You may be the best shot while at the range but during a high stress situation even the most highly trained military and police shooters have missed their targets with a pistol. Over-penetration can be an issue depending on the caliber and type of ammo you choose. Over-penetration is when your bullet travels further than what you want it to, such as when you miss your target and the round goes through the wall and into your child’s room. Due to the fact that there are many readers from different countries on here, I cannot make one recommendation on ammo type or caliber that would meet everyone’s needs, so instead I’m going to leave it up to you. Do your own research, it is definitely worth it.


If you absolutely must use a pistol, a .45 loaded with hollow points is your best option.  In saying that, I also know that some men and women (my wife included) have smaller hands and would not be able to properly grip a .45 caliber pistol.  That is just a starting point, work your way down from there until you find a pistol and caliber that you can effectively utilize and will still stop your attacker.  I would not recommend going lower than a .38, and even then that is pushing it.  During a home invasion your attacker will more than likely only be a few feet away from you if you need to engage, and when you shoot you have to be relatively certain that he will be immediately incapacitated.  If not, he may continue his attack and end up wounding or killing you or a member of your family even though he has been shot.  Stopping power is the main argument for a .45 caliber (most direct action units use .45's for that purpose rather than the standard 9mm...even though it holds half the rounds).  Shot placement is also key.  Obviously somebody shot in the chest will more than likely go down a lot faster than somebody shot in the hand.  This is also connected to over-penetration which we hit on above.  If you have kids in the house, you need to make sure you have a plan in case of a home invasion.  Where will you position yourself to protect your family?  From that position, is there a possibility your round or the attackers round may enter your children's bedroom or yours?  Where will you tell your kids to be?  On the floor?  In the closet?  Under the bed?  Make sure you prep your mind for the fact that your child may not stay put and he/she may run directly into your room.  DON'T SHOOT!  Easy to say, but add loads of adrenaline and a muddled brain and...  I will cover more of that kind of stuff in a later post, just ensure that the pistol you choose is reliable (Smith&Wesson, Glock, HK...) and has a rail on the front so that you can attach a pistol light.  You have to be able to see your target.  A laser is recommended but optional.  For a novice I would stick to a weapon mounted light, but as you progress you can start playing around.  There are a lot of fun things you can do with a light that isn't mounted.  For now though, your pistol light would be giving your attacker a target to shoot at but that is better than missing your target because you don't know how to shoot with a hand-held flashlight or shooting your child because you can't see.
I could write a book on all the ins-and-outs of using a pistol for self-defense but this blog is not the place.  You came here for quick, effective, and easy to read information and that is what I try to give.  Just remember that if you are going to use a pistol for self-defense in the home or anywhere else, make sure you get some professional training that includes classroom time and range time.  Without it you are more of a danger than a saviour.  Do some reading, ask your local law enforcement, or give me a buzz if you have any questions.  It would take forever to make this post broad enough to fit everyone's needs, but I would be happy to answer targeted questions. 
The next weapon we will discuss is the assault rifle. I am purposely omitting hunting rifles because those should only be used as a last resort and all the same rules from an assault rifle apply to a hunting type rifle.


Assault Rifles:
(AK’s, M-4’s, MP-5 style, Galil’s etc…)


Pro’s – Assault rifles look cool and you can attach all kinds of high-speed gizmos to them with the right hardware. Weapons lights, pressure pads, lasers, scopes, aiming points, double magazine carriers and more can all be outfitted on most assault rifles. They can hold a lot of ammunition (usually 30 rounds or more) and they fire as fast as you can pull the trigger.


Con’s – Unless you live in a mansion or way out in the country, the main issue with assault rifles is over-penetration. The max range on 5.56 ammunition (for an M-4/M16 style weapon that the U.S. military uses) is around 3600m. Most of that ammunition will easily penetrate household walls, glass, 2x4’s, car doors, and a myriad of other common building materials. This holds true for other assault rifle ammunition as well except for the 9mm of the MP-5 style. I will touch on that in a second. If you live in an urban or suburban environment, imagine the outcome of you shooting at an assailant and having half of your rounds exit your house and enter your neighbor’s homes. More than likely, even if you did prevent your family from being harmed, you will still find yourself in jail and have made enemies of your neighbors. It is not worth it. A good assault rifle is going to set you back almost $1000 and the other options you have available to you for a quarter of the cost would make it so you wouldn’t have a leg to stand on in court. DO NOT USE AN ASSAULT RIFLE FOR HOME DEFENSE unless it is legal and practical, such as your home is located in a place like Iraq. Now, for the ammo, there are such things as frangible rounds. These rounds are designed to break apart when they hit something more solid than themselves. When using this ammo in your home, if your attacker is behind a wall there is a good possibility that your rounds will not penetrate. These rounds are mainly used by law enforcement and military for training and for protecting assets such as nuclear facilities and ships where over penetration or ricochets are highly undesirable. As for 9mm ammunition, H&K makes assault rifles that take this size round, and Intratec made machine pistols of this caliber but they are no longer in business. Since this is standard pistol ammo you will still be dealing with the same over penetration issues that we discussed with pistols but anything with a longer barrel and a stock will give you more accuracy than a handgun. Another issue with assault rifles, and we already touched on it a little bit, is the aftermath. Unfortunately, even though the person you shot broke into your home and threatened you or your family, they or their families can still sue you and win! Welcome to the American legal system. It is asinine but the average American looks on guns with fear and disdain and after hearing testimony from sobbing relatives and “expert” witnesses, the jury may look at you like YOU are the bad guy. Apparently only criminals can have assault rifles and if you own one and use it, that makes you a criminal in the eyes of a lot of Americans.


Now, let’s talk about shotguns.


Shotguns:
Pro’s – Shotguns are relatively easy to use and maintain. They have few working parts so there is less that can go wrong. You can mount lights and aiming points on them just like a rifle. Here is a link that will show you all you a lot you can do with a shotgun. When using buckshot, you don’t have to be an expert marksman. A general rule of thumb is the shorter the barrel or the further the shot travels, the larger the spread. In saying that, different ammo spreads differently so you need to shoot the ammo you will be using at varied distances to gauge the spread accurately. Here is a link to give you an idea of shotgun spread.
A good shotgun is cheap, only costing around $250, and you can walk out of the store with it that day in most states. Also, owning a shotgun is legal in a lot of cities that have a low tolerance for weapons such as Chicago. You can buy different gauges that better suit your stature. If you are a small woman a 12 gauge is probably a little too big. You can get a 20 or .410 gauge; it still packs punch and will not dislocate your shoulder or make you drop the gun.


Con’s – Shotguns can be relatively heavy and cumbersome. Most don’t come ready for home defense so you have to buy the attachments pictured above in order to shorten its length and make it better suited for protecting your home. When used at close range, a shotgun will make a mess of the person you shot so mentally prepare yourself for the aftermath, especially if you achieved a headshot. Repainting, replacing carpet, and fixing drywall will probably be on the list as well.


When talking ammo, buckshot is usually best. All buckshot is is a bunch of little steel balls, kind of like ball bearings, packed into a shell that disperse when shot. They do make slugs that come in handy for going through walls but they require you to aim which requires a little more skill. For a novice I would simply stick with buckshot. When talking over penetration, there is a chance with buckshot but the shot will usually be stopped by the wood in your walls and slowed down quite a bit when it enters and exits the dry wall. Same with most hollow interior doors. I still wouldn’t aim it directly at your kid’s rooms but the likelihood of your shot passing through an assailant is slim, unlike an assault rifles round. This all has to do with ballistics, the shape of the round, muzzle velocity, and a bunch of other factors. For the novice, just keep in mind that you should always be aware of your target and WHAT LIES BEYOND, but in a life or death situation buckshot is going to be your best choice. If you would like more guidance on this drop me a line and I will try to make things a little more clearer.


This concludes this section on firearms for your home. Next, we will discuss firearms for self-defense while you are out and about.  Hopefully I can get it done quicker than I did with this post.


Here it is, def. a lot faster than last time.


2. Out and About
There is only one practical type of firearm to consider while you are on the go and that is the pistol…so that is all that will be discussed.

You must take carrying a concealed firearm for self defense in public serious. As previously discussed, if you are not ready to take someone’s life or do not know how to use your weapon then you SHOULD NOT BE CARRYING IT. Since you are out in public, if you miss with a firearm or have a negligent discharge (your weapon goes off without you intending it to) then you will be putting more than your family in danger. And God forbid if you accidentally shoot an innocent person, regardless if you were trying to defend yourself or not, because you will have a hard time staying out of prison. Not to mention the psychological burden you may carry around for the rest of your life. Some states like Indiana simply require you to undergo a background check and provide money for an application fee in order for you to legally carry a concealed weapon, and others require you to attend formal training (under a licensed firearms instructor with class time and range time) to receive a permit. If you are new to firearms, I strongly urge you to take a course before you carry even if you live in a state that does not require it. If you don’t know where to start, google something like “basic pistol course Indiana” or whatever state you live in and check out the results. The NRA usually has instructors in every state, you can visit their website at http://www.nrahq.org/education/training/index.asp to get started. Not only do you need to know how to use your firearm, but you also need to know how to legally carry it. This again is where formal classes come in handy.

Formal classes usually cover all the laws pertaining to your state in-depth so that you will be set up for success. And while some states have easy to read laws posted on their government website, others do not. Remember, ignorance is no excuse! If you need any help pertaining to this subject please let me know.

Now that we have discussed the preliminaries, let’s get on with it shall we?

When we talk of a concealed weapon, I mean if somebody where to look at you 360, while standing or walking, they would not know that you are armed. If you are carrying to satisfy your ego please leave and don’t come back, I’m writing for beginners serious about their safety not amateurs who lack self-esteem.

When choosing a pistol to carry you should consider its actual weight, stopping power, comfort, and ease of use. Never decide on a firearm without first trying it out. Lots of gun stores with indoor ranges have pistols that you can rent, and though they may not have the exact one you are looking at, they may have one similar that will allow you to make a better decision.

Weight is important because more than likely you will be carry your pistol on your body. I carried around a Ruger P90 for a long time (it was all I could afford) and it was a big, heavy gun. It left marks on my hip and was very difficult to keep concealed. I ended up having to decide on whether to carry it or not depending on what I was going to be doing that day. Don’t let this be you. This goes for females especially who don’t normally wear pants that can hold up a heavy pistol.

Stopping power usually relates directly to the weight of the pistol simply because a bigger caliber means heavier ammunition, a larger magazine and magazine well to hold the rounds, and a larger barrel. Unlike home defense, it is my opinion that your level of potential threat should decide your caliber and number of magazines (mags). In the home, someone has made a conscious effort to enter your house and to me that automatically elevates an assailant’s dedication and will to inflict harm, so the largest caliber you can handle should be used in order to immediately incapacitate the person. On the street, however, you need to assess your potential for conflict. If you live in an area where crime is rampant and you can’t walk down the street without passing several drug dealers and gang bangers then I would recommend a larger caliber pistol (again, a caliber that you can effectively use) with at least two extra mags in case you needed to defend yourself from several armed assailants.  Remember, two is one and one is none.  Meaning that having two mags is like having one, since if one mag malfunctions you have another one to use.  If you just have one mag, you are screwed. The same holds true if you are a potential target for robbery or someone with elite access to sensitive areas, such as a jewelry store owner, bank manager, or something of that sort. If you are ever attacked it will more than likely be by several individuals who have formulated a plan and have a strong will to complete their mission, so simply waving a pistol will probably not do the trick. On the flip side, if you live in an area with a relatively low crime rate and offer nothing that would elevate your risk of being attacked above another, then a smaller caliber pistol with only one extra mag (or load if you are using a revolver) could be right for you. Your attacker will most likely be alone or with only a few friends, be disorganized, and easily scared off when their “easy” prey turns out to be better prepared and more confident than what they are used to. When speaking of calibers, I would consider .22, .38, and 9mm as small calibers, and .357, .40 and .45 as larger calibers. I would not recommend carrying a .50 caliber pistol such as the Desert Eagle simply because of its sheer size, weight, and difficulty in handling. As discussed above, hollow points are preferred except while driving. I usually carry a mag of ball ammunition in my pistol while driving in case I have to shoot through the car window. Hollow points are made to mushroom when they connect which is good in the body, but bad when you are trying to penetrate a hard surface. Think of getting carjacked. You are inside your vehicle and a man with a gun runs up and demands you get out. If you have hollow points your first couple of rounds may only break the glass, allowing the assailant time to fire his own weapon straight into your car. With ball ammunition, you have a better chance of your first round going through the glass and into the perpetrator.

Comfort will tie in with how you carry your pistol (we will get into holsters a little later), your physical size, and the size and weight of your gun. This will be a personal decision but don’t expect to find a gun that feels as if it is not there. Most guns will always be felt by their wearers, and that is a good thing as you won’t forget that it is there. But you also shouldn’t purchase a gun that you will never wear because it is too cumbersome or painful.

Ease of use is another important factor. Why buy a gun that you can’t operate successfully in the heat of the moment, or one that you feel you may discharge negligently. This all goes back to practicing with your choice before you buy. Some guns have safeties that you need to manipulate in order to fire. Single action pistols require the hammer to be cocked in order to fire meaning that it takes less pressure on the trigger. Other pistols have no safety or, like the Glock, have internal safeties that keep the weapon from accidentally going off if it is dropped or thrown around a car during an accident, but will still fire just by pulling the trigger. 

Ease of use also extends into the construction of the gun. A lot of gun manufacturers sell guns specifically made for concealed carry that are more sleek in design and have had all the sharp edges taken off so that they won’t get caught on your clothing or other objects when drawing. Do your research! Here is an article that goes a little more in-depth.

Now let’s talk about holsters. Back in my “gangster” days (pre 20’s) I used to carry a little 5 shot .38 everywhere. I had no holster for it nor did I need one because I was a “gangster” and gangsters tuck it into their waistbands. One night, while eating with a bunch of friends at Outback, we had all finished our meals (luckily) and were getting ready to leave. I was at the end of the table and as I stood up the pistol fell out of my waist, down the inside of my pants, hit my foot and the momentum carried it across the floor. As bad as that was, we were right by the door and it was a busy Friday night. All the hostesses saw it as well as the customers waiting to be seated. I quickly picked the shiny silver pistol up off the floor and virtually fled out the door, hoping no one (read cop) could react. It was immature, embarrassing, and reckless all tied into one. Don’t let that be you. Get a good holster that will secure your pistol. Fobus makes good holsters for all different types of pistols and carries. I prefer my pistol and mags on my hip so that they are readily accessible but different environments, dress, and places call for different holsters. For normal wear, with pants or shorts, shirt un-tucked, I would go with your pistol on your waist. You can draw it quickly and have better control over it. Fobus makes hard plastic holsters that are secured on the outside of your waistband by your belt, or Uncle Mike's (their website appears to be down, but I know you can get their products still from local gun stores) make soft, felt-like holster that go inside your pants with a clip that slips over your belt to hold it in place. Don’t make the same mistake I did and think that the soft holster is supposed to go on the outside and then wonder why your gun always falls out. Bellyband also makes a holster; you may try that if you wish. In movies you see G-men using shoulder harnesses for their weapons, I would not recommend these as the harness is cumbersome and doesn’t really conceal much more than a holster on your waist would. It also takes 2 hands to reholster which is a pain in the butt when your non-firing hand is wounded or otherwise preoccupied. Ankle holsters are good for smaller pistols when you are in formal wear or have your shirt tucked in. They are relatively unobtrusive but you may have to constantly adjust it back into position as the day or night wears on. Gravity and the repetitive motion of walking may cause it to slip down.

When you are in a vehicle, you should consider a different type of holster. You still want to secure your pistol in case of an accident but you also need to be able to get to it. Wearing it on your waist or leg makes it extremely difficult to get to so I would recommend something like a fanny pack. I carried a Blackhawk fanny pack for my Glock 19 in Iraq and it worked wonderfully. Securely held my pistol but I could draw it immediately when needed. Eagle also makes one but it is a little more bulky than the Blackhawk and less efficient.

This concludes the firearms portion of this post. If you have any questions at all please let me know. For some idle reading check out this link .  It was a study done in the ‘70’s and published in 1981 so it is dated but it has a lot of good information on the emergence of proper firearms training for law enforcement and stats on shootings during that time that still apply today. 


Knives:
Our discussion of knives will finish up this monster of a post, and it should go fairly quickly as there is not a whole lot to say.

In terms of home defense, knives should not be considered as your primary weapon; rather, it should be a weapon of opportunity (which we will discuss in a later post) that you use only as a last resort. The reason being, knives are relatively short which means you have to let your attacker get close to you in order to begin your attack. Also, you have probably heard the saying “never bring a knife to a gunfight” because obviously the intruder need only pull the trigger outside of your reach to kill you. Stick with firearms when protecting your home.

Outside of your home is a different story. If you can legally and competently carry a firearm then do it. If not, a knife could be your next best choice, though check with your local laws on what is considered a concealed weapon.  The blade length, or whether it is a fixed blade or not, may factor in. Like all weapons though, there are limitations. I will begin by talking about the pros of carrying a knife, the cons, and then end with general guidelines.

Pros - Knives are relatively inexpensive. A good one should cost around $100. They are small and unobtrusive and are allowed in most places that otherwise ban firearms (again, check with local laws). They are easy for beginners to use (there are more advanced techniques that can raise your level of confidence and effectiveness), sturdy, and can be effective even if you miss vital areas of the body. A cut on the forehead will cause blood to run into your assailant’s eyes. Cuts on the arms may cause blood to run onto your attacker’s hands, affecting his grip. Cut tendons on the hands can affect movement and grip as well. Knives can be deployed quickly and one can carry it around (folder) unnoticed in the palm of the hand.

Cons - In order to effectively use a knife, you have to be close enough to your attacker to reach him. ..which means he can also reach you. Knives will not be allowed on airplanes or in federal buildings. You have a good chance of cutting yourself while using your knife to fend off an attack. The psychological effect of cutting into another human being may be too much for you to handle, causing you to hesitate. A knife doesn’t do well against a gun.

The knife you choose to carry will be a personal decision but do not think you are going to be walking around with a giant Bowie type knife attached to your hip. It is extremely difficult to conceal and will let everyone know that yes, you are armed but only with a knife, allowing your attackers to plan accordingly.

Knives are best used as a surprise against your attacker. Pulling your knife too early will give away your planned defense and though it could scare away a potential assailant, it may simply make his attack more effective and lessen your chance of prevailing. If you have been paying attention throughout this blog, in most cases you shouldn’t have to take the extra time to draw your knife because you have identified the threat or potential threatening situation and have your knife in hand. A pistol would not allow you to do this as it is unacceptable to be walking in public gripping a pistol. I recommend surprising your attacker because he has more than likely labeled you as a soft target. He is expecting you to resist but not attack so when he all of a sudden gets stabbed or cut it may create enough hesitation on his part for you to gain the upper hand or get away.

As I said, your choice of knife is a personal decision but I will toss out a few recommendations that I prefer.

a.) Gerber Applegate Fairbairn Combat Knife – My personal favorite. It comes with a pocket clip that allows for an easy and silent draw. The handle is long enough to be comfortable for most any sized hands. The blade is an inch and a quarter longer than most pocket knives and is made by a reputable company with law enforcement and military in mind.

b.) Cold Steel Safe Keeper II – Another favorite of mine. I carried this constantly while operating and contracting; I called it my tri-mary weapon and kept it on my thigh rig right next to my pistol. Due to its short blade, double edge, and design I have chosen the Gerber for protection while in the States. The blade length is a no brainer, the double edge combined with the way you use this particular knife elevates the risk of cutting yourself when struggling with an attacker in close quarters. Overseas it works well as a sentry removal tool or in close quarters when your pistol runs dry and you need to continue pressing the attack. That is an unlikely scenario here in the states.

c.) Novelty – There are other blades out there that masquerade as common items:
Ink Pen
Belt Buckle
Comb
Necklace
Lipstick

This concludes this posts.  There is a lot of information contained in here and a lot of information kept out, so if you have any questions, comments, or need some guidance please let me know.
Cheers!